It depends on size, pitch, how many layers are up there and what the deck looks like underneath. We measure the roof, check the decking, and give you one written price before anything starts. No estimate over the phone.
Yes, fully licensed and insured in New Jersey. We carry general liability and workers' compensation, and we will send you the certificates before we start.
It depends how much life is left. If you have ten good years and one bad valley, we will repair it and tell you honestly how long that buys you. We only recommend replacing when repairing stops making sense.
Yes. We photograph the damage, meet your adjuster at the house, and make sure the scope on paper matches what is actually on your roof.
Yes, and there is no obligation. We get on the roof or into the crawlspace, photograph what we find, and walk you through it. You keep the photos whether you hire us or not.
Most roofs are one to two days. Siding and masonry depend on the size of the house. Either way you get a start date and a finish date in writing before we begin.
You get the manufacturer warranty on the materials plus our own workmanship warranty on the labor. If something we installed fails, we come back and fix it at no charge.
It depends on size, pitch, how many layers are already up there and what the deck looks like underneath. We measure the roof, check the decking, and give you one written price. We don't quote roofs over the phone.
We tarp beds and shrubs before the tear-off starts, keep debris off the lawn, and finish with a magnet sweep for nails. If something does get damaged, we make it right.
Age, granule loss, curling edges and how many layers are already on the house. If you have ten good years left and one bad valley, we'll repair it and say so. We photograph everything, so you can see exactly what we saw.
Most homes are one to two days. We tear off and dry your roof in the same day, so the house is never left open to the weather overnight.
We watch the forecast and won't open a roof we can't close. If weather turns, everything gets dried in before we stop for the day.
It's priced by the square footage of wall and how much of the mortar has actually failed. We look at the wall, tell you how deep the damage goes, and give you one written price.
Done properly, with the mix matched to your brick, expect decades. Done with a mortar that's harder than the brick, it can start breaking the brick apart within a few winters.
Yes. We match mortar color and hardness to the original and source replacement brick as close as we can find. On an older home the goal is that you can't see where we worked.
Some of it. Mortar needs temperature to cure, so we schedule around hard freezes and use heat and blankets when the weather is marginal. We won't lay mortar into a freeze and hope.
If the brick is sound and only the joints have failed, repointing is enough. Once the brick itself is spalling and the wall has moved, repointing buys about a year and a rebuild is the honest answer.
Efflorescence, the mineral salts left behind as water moves through the masonry and evaporates. It's cosmetic in itself, but it tells you water is getting in somewhere.
Because the failure is usually small. A hairline crack in the crown or a worn flashing joint only lets water through when rain is driven hard enough. There are five places water gets in, and we test each one before quoting.
The crown is the concrete slab across the top of the chimney. Most older homes have a thin mortar wash instead of a real one, and once that cracks, water pours straight down inside the stack.
If the brick above the roofline is spalling and the mortar is gone, repointing buys you about a year. We take it down to sound masonry and rebuild only when that is genuinely the cheaper answer over time.
It depends how far down we have to take it and how much of your original brick can be reused. Your written price names the take-down height, so there's no surprise once the scaffold is up.
If it's letting water in, yes. An unused flue still sits on your roof, and a failed crown or missing cap will rot framing and stain ceilings whether you ever light a fire or not.
We're masons and roofers, not sweeps. If your flue needs cleaning or a Level 2 inspection, we'll tell you and point you to someone who does it properly.
Almost always the base, not the concrete. If it wasn't dug to depth and compacted, the first freeze-thaw cycle moves it and the slab cracks. We dig, compact and reinforce before anything gets poured.
Often yes, particularly once railings and height are involved. We pull the permit and handle the inspection, and we build to code so it passes the first time.
Concrete is one solid pour and usually the cheaper option. Pavers cost more but can be lifted and relaid if the ground ever settles. We'll tell you which suits your entry and your budget.
Usually. We match as closely as the material allows and set the new work so the transition isn't the first thing you notice from the street.
Normal foot traffic after a day or two, and give it a week before anything heavy. We tell you the exact timing for your pour before we leave the site.
Concrete needs the right temperature to cure. We schedule around it and use hot water and blankets when we can, but we won't pour into a hard freeze.
It helps with comfort and noise, and it makes the wall sit flatter so the finish looks better. Whether it pays for itself depends on the house. If your attic is under-insulated, spend that money there first.
We stop, photograph it and price the repair before carrying on. Rotten sheathing gets replaced rather than covered, because siding over rot only hides the problem for a few years.
Sometimes. If the profile is still made and the color hasn't drifted too far, a section repair works well. If the rest has faded, the patch will show, and we'll tell you that before you spend the money.
Vinyl is easier on the budget and performs well when it's installed properly. Fiber cement costs more, holds paint longer and takes impact better. Both work in New Jersey, so it comes down to budget and how long you plan to stay.
Most homes run from a few days to a week, depending on size and how much trim and capping is involved. You get a start date and a finish date before we begin.
Insulated siding can help, but siding alone isn't insulation. If your bills are high, air sealing and attic insulation usually give a bigger return, and we'll say so.
Seams are where gutters leak. We form seamless runs on site to the length of your roof, so the only joints are at the corners and outlets where they can be properly sealed.
Yes, and it's the most common cause we see. Undersized or overflowing gutters dump water straight at the foundation. Fixing the gutters and extending the downspouts is far cheaper than waterproofing a basement.
It depends on your roof area and pitch. Six-inch moves noticeably more water and pairs with larger downspouts. We size it to your actual roof rather than matching whatever happens to be up there now.
Yes. We form gutters in a wide range of colors and match your trim or fascia. We'll hold the color against the house before we run anything.
If you have trees over the roof, yes. They don't make gutters maintenance-free, but they turn an annual clean-out into an occasional one.
Most homes are a single day, including guards and downspout routing.